On the Uda walawe road a silver car drove slowly, trying to find a suitable place to stop. Driving the car was my father, and beside him was my sister, lolling her head from side to side.Behind them was Lahari and Kalanie our family friends and beside them was Flit the only one left awake in the back seat, for beside her was one of her sisters very close friends, Rebeca. Flit was patiently enduring Rebeca’s strange subconscious behavior 0f hand stroking.
Finally after 2 and a half hour(or more) of driving we stopped near a small shrub, and those in the car disembarked from the car onto the very Uda Walave road. The presence of these strange five strange creatures and Flit alerted a nearby elephant(Elephas Maximus maximus)standing on the other side of the fence that ran along the other side the road, protecting the people from Sri Lankas wilderness. As we stood and ate breakfast, the elephant made eager gestures towards us(actually toward our breakfast). A strange shriek startled us. A pair of mongooses(Herpestes edwardsii) aggressively ran around eyes locked on each other, snarling like midget panthers, though too cowardly to actually make a move.
We then drove on for quite some time. I was once again subjected to Rebeca’s unnatural behavior. We finally arrived at the Forest Bungalow. It had a small quarter for the people who worked there and a fairly large building for the visitors. This building had a corridor running through it and there where two rooms that could be accessed through the two doors that lined this corridor.After selecting our rooms we sat outside on the porch staring at the large(very large) pond that lay ahead of us. A pack of stray dogs that were being fed by the people working here where having fun bullying another dog, who I might guess wanted to join there pack.The dog wouldn’t give up he just stood and barked and barked and barked, and yes, he barked some more, until he finally gave up and retired to humiliate himself by barking at his reflection in the pond. He proceeded to further humiliate himself by leaping into the water to do the incredible feat of defeating his reflection of deception.
As I sat and watched as the dog tried to gain the respect he was quickly losing(for he was a cute dog, so I guess he had some respect) a fat imperial pigeon(Ducula aenea) sitting on a branch of a tree on the edge of the pond caught my eye. A little green bee eater(Merops orientalis) flew onto the branch under it.After a few ‘aggressive’ chirps directed at the imperial pigeon above it, the pigeon in a huff of feathers took off leaving the bee eater contentedly sitting on the branch, it was sitting on a few seconds ago. It made me think. My, how much politics the animal kingdom had. It reminded me of the Sri Lankan parliament.
The land rover finally arrived. We all piled into the land rover, and waited for the lamprais to arrive. Whilst waiting for them(the cooks) to heat and bring the lamprais, a strange, aromatic smell reached our noses. It smelled of spices and good Sri Lankan food. Every one ‘mmm…’ed and ‘ahhh…’ed with approval until one smart person decided to question what this was.”I wander what they are making?”. Then it finally occurred to us. The LAMPRAIS! I guess they weren’t heating it they were most probably burning it. Finally they came carrying the box of lumprais and a strong smell as well. It didn’t smell that bad, actually the smelled of the smouldering banana leaf was quite good. So we tucked the container under the seat and set off leaving a storm of red dust behind us.
After an extremely uncomfortable five-minute drive that made us all hold our bottoms in pain, we ended up at the Yala Visitor Center. Our guide and driver, Jagath told us that a bear who had injured itself during a fight with a leopard was being treated here for the past four days.He said all of this in a very secretive voice. He also added that no one was allowed to see it and very slowly whispered to us that he would make an exception and let us see it. We all excitedly ran to the room that it was healing in. We looked through the metal bars and saw a large pile of black fur hyperventilating on the floor. It was a sad sight and we all looked at it in sympathy. Next to us a few noisy foreigners were clearly irritating the bear (they weren’t only irritating the bear) starred at it in wide-eyed wonder. Clearly we weren’t the only exception made to witness the poor bear suffering.
We made our way back into the land rover and took off once more. Before we reached the entrance to the park my father told Lahari and kalanie not to talk. They where Sri Lankans who lived in the US, and foreigners had to pay extra to go into the park, and their accent was a clear give away.
After we got through without any problems we all leaned our necks out the land rover watching for any movement. One by one we would escape near blinding by the evil looking crooked branches that seemed to loom out to greet us directly in the face. We passed pea cocks (Pavo cristatus) and pea hens,and beady eyed jungle fowls (Gallus lafayetii).
We stopped at a large lake filled with a diversity life plodding, poking, pulling, plucking, catching, eating, and indulging themselves in various other activities. There were large flocks of painted storks (Mycteria leucocephala) and black headed ibis (Threskiornis melanocephalus) and a single grey heron(Ardea cinerea) stared into the water unblinking(not that I could see its eyes, but I’m guessing it was getting frustrated). Sand pipes (Calidris ferruginea) and red shanks(Tringa totanus) scuttled along the bank, stopping for a millisecond to peck at the ground, and up above, white breasted sea eagles(Haliaeetus leucogaster) circled over the lake. Buffaloes(Bubalus bubalis) lumbered on the bank of the lake whilst others lay submerged cooling themselves in the murky water with looks of bliss written on their dark muddy faces. On the West of the lake a huge mugger crocodile (Crocodylus Palustris) sun bathed with a grim look on his face.
Whilst we where going Jagath got a message. Apparently someone (who is very lucky) managed to spot a leopard (Panthera pardus kotiya). We drove to the site faster than I thought this land rover was capable of (it looked like it was dug up with a bunch ruins in Egypt). We were on the bank of a small river with two more land rovers. One of the land rovers had a few foreigners and in the other was another foreigner, and a, huge and when I say huge, I mean HUGE!, camera lens. It was roughly my height( okay maybe a head shorter).
After we got over the giant camera lens, we realized we came to see the leopard. We looked every where, but the lepard was out of sight. Until my father finally plucked up the courage to ask Jagath where the leopard was(he had been staring at the trees on the opposite side for a long time. I didn’t even see him blink) Then he pointed into a fork in the network of branches of a tree, and there sat the most sleepiest, laziest, lousiest leopard I have ever seen. I just lazed on the branch, and all you could see was its large spotted backside. So we waited there in the hot sun for THREE hours just staring at the leopard. It moved only twice during those THREE hours. We finally gave up and told one of the other drivers to inform us when it gets down. At least during that time a sambar (Cervus Unicolor) crossed the road far off, and a family(including the extended family as well) of wild boar (Sus Scrofa) wallowed and snorted in the mud to entertain us.
We went around the area but kept close to the sight of the leopard. To our great disappointment we saw nothing. We then decided to go back and stare at the leopard. When we got there a two more land rovers and car where there as well. The leopard had gone back to its first position. But now our eyes weren’t on the leopard, but on the huge magnificent tusker that was in front of us. After marveling the tusker for two hours or so we saw a golden jackal (Canis aureus) sneakily come out of the bushes. It looked from left to right, took a few more steps and looked left and right again. It then ran to the water and took small and fast sips, turning its head toward the leopards tree and it one short bound it leaped into the water and proceeded to drink more water.
After getting sick of staring at the leopard for two hours again, we went to have lunch. Jagath took us on very narrow and unstable road which made me want to part with my breakfast. But the ride was all worth it. A few minutes later we arrived at a large pool of water which was full the brim with mugger crocodiles(Crocodylus Palustrus). After trying to count how many crocodiles there were, we ended up with around thirty odd crocodiles. The big crocodiles teeth where stained orange, and I doubt it’s because it was chewing on a dozen betel leaves (Piper betle) (known to Sri Lankans as ‘bulath’). There was one juvenile crocodile that caught my eye. I don’t know, but something about it made it look so cheery and sweet. I wanted to go down and hug it. So I decided to christen it Bashful.We took out the lumpries with our breath held. They looked liked the cooks had poured kerosene oil on them and used it as bon fire. But we still ate them. They had a strange taste, but nothing could spoil my mood. Eating burnt lumpraise in a landrover in front of a pool of crocodiles does great things for your mood.
After departing with the crocodiles, painted storks and adjutant storks (Leptoptilos javanicus) and open bill storks ( Anastomus oscitans) and went to stare at the leopard once more. The leopard and the tusker where still there. There was another addition to the tusker and leopard. A mother elephant and her two little toddlers. They had come for thier afternoon bath. The two baby elephants tumbled and rolled in the water on top of each other. On the other side the tusker was making its move towards the trio. The family disembarked from the murky water and found themselves confronted by the tusker. No one in the land rover knew what was happening behind them until a gusty, wet snort caught us in the head. We all swiveled (except Kalani who was sill gazing at the other foursome) around to find the trunk of a tusker inside the land rover. We all leaned against the side of the land rover with wide eyes. My sister dragged Kalini by the colar and propped her up against the edge of the landrover. She had absolutely no idea what was happening. Its trunk was twisting and turning inside, trying to reach us. We all silently, wide eyed, open mouthed watched in fear as the trunk got closer and closer. Then! Jagath to the rescue!”EH!EH!EH!EH!” He shrieked. The elephant looked at him. I noticed its eyes where red. It backed away. “EEEEEE!EEEEEE!” Jagath shrieked once more. The elephant turned around and walked into the bushes making side way glances at Jagath. Later on we figured out that the elephant most probably wanted the lamprais and not us. The lamprais had a strong stench which attracted the elephant.
We then left the leopard out of fear that the elephant might come out and try to eat us instead of the lamprais. We set off, AGAIN!. This time we came to more greener foresty terrain and we soon arrived at a shallow river. I ran into the cool, clear water. Junst what I needed on this exceptionally hot day. We made a futile attempt to cross the river but the currants where too strong. I stood in the water and felt the fish nipping at my legs. Ahh… I could have waited like that all day, but we had to leave at that very moment. We got into the landrover once more. Whilst going we saw a large serpent eagle (Spilornis cheela). It looked at us with steely, suspicious eyes and stretched its neck towards us. This was followed by a series of clicking noises coming from the cameras. We left it in that very position.
On the way we saw another tusker.The man with the giant camera lense was there as well, brows furrowed,staring intensely trough the camera at the tusker. For fun, my sister and I opened up the box of lumpries. The air as filled with the aroma of spices. The man in the other land rover the mans nose started to twitch. The smell was radiating through the atmosphere. Unfortunately, the now quite pungent smell did not reach the tusker.
Whilst going Jagath got a call. “ah hari”. Translation:”Oh, Okay”. He revved the engine and we where all flung backward. We asked Jagath what had happened and he replied “Thiviya. Gahen Bahala. Than evithinava”. Translation “The leopard. It got down from the tree. Its walking now.”. We all shouted at the top of our lungs “hayiyen Yannako!”. Translation “Go FAST!”. We finally arrived at a fairly large, murky pond. There was no sign of the leopard. There where now close to seven land rovers, and more just kept on coming. We stood up on the seats, and peered out over the land rover. We waited for ten minutes impatiently. Then from the thicket the famous spotted pattern came into visible. The leopard has arrived. It walked up and onto the bund doing a cat walk. To everyone’s extreme annoyance an Indian boy said “Oh that is a leopard papa!”. Rebecca and I simultaneously said “Shut Up You Idiot!”. By that time, the leopard had walked to the other side and slipped away into the bush. In a shower of sand that left us all coughing the land rovers took off in a hurry.I had happened to be standing on the seat when Jagath took off in a hurry. I was holding on for dear life.
It was a wild goose chase. We went all around Yala, competing with the foreigners. We went back to the old place. The leopard was in the tree again! Then we realized that that was a different leopard. I was still standing on the seat gasping for breath after being tossed around, when once again jagath sent me flying. We then found ourselves in a thicket. We leaned out as much as possible and stared into the shrubbery with leopards on our minds. There was another land rover in front of us that took off the very instance my sister, Rebeca and I saw a few cheetal deer (Axis axis) leap across the road like lightning. It was too late Jagath had already driven after the other land rover in a hurry.
We then came to a small water open area surrounded by trees. Jagath was tired. We all were. So we waited a little whilst rejuvenating ourselves. A few land rovers that passed us stopped so see why we had stopped, waiting on the side of the road. My sister and I pretended to stare into the under growth and point. The foreigners in the other land rovers stopped and stared as well. We all laughed at them. All except Rebeca who was protesting.
Jagath looked at his phone and in a second we were off once more, leaving the foreigners still staring into the bushes. All of a sudden we where on a high road. Around us was a small pond that was surrounded by fertile, bright green grass. A few trees stood solitary in the middle, surrounded by a forest of trees. Buffaloes and deer were grazing peacefully, mongooses scampered about, trying to eat each other and painted storks waded in the water. And at that very moment, the buffaloes looked up, the deer looked up the mongooses looked up and the painted storks congregated to a corner of the clearing, and yes, they looked up as well.
Out from behind a tree it came. It walked out gracefully towards center. Every animal backed away. The mongoose was the one who started it all. In attempt to be polite it incredibly stupidly skipped up to the leopard with what looked like a smile on its narrow face. After it was about one foot away from the leopard, the leopard sprang into the air on top of the mongoose. The mongoose narrowly escaped, now running, but the leopard was sprinting after it with incredible speed. A shriek was heard and the mongooses limp body now hung from the leopards mouth. The leopard went behind a tree, and with an act of pure sympathy it let the mongoose run free.
The leopard then walked toward the water. It slowly sipped at the water eying the buffaloes who where watching its every move. The leopards eyes landed on a small buffalo. The others noticed and hid it behind the herd protecting it from the leopards. The larger buffaloes where now approaching the leopard, and to every ones surprise all the painted storks with their head held high approached the leopard as well. The leopard and the buffaloes exchanged words. The conversation ended with a loud wail from the buffalo. The leopard turned around and ran off into the bushes. There was a short pause. All the animals(including Homo Sapien Sapien) stared intently into the bushes that the leopard exited through. There was a loud revving and we turned around and drove as fast as possible. The leopard was about to cross the road and we would have front seat tickets to see it. We saw the leopard on one side and then waited. A few second later we saw it on the other side. We all took our cameras. It sounded like rain. All the cameras were clicking, like the leopard was a celebrity. Then put our cameras and binos down and laughed. The leopard didn’t cross the road. It went under the road!
I don’t know why us humans pompously try to show off. Homo Sapien Sapien. Wise man. I think not. Animals are so intelligent! We ignorant people refuse to recognize it. We are too busy with our heads in the clouds to notice how amazing animals are. The chimpanzees have their own tools to gather food. We didn’t give them the tools. They themselves watching no one made them and use them successfully. Crows are known to crack nut shells via traffic by dropping them onto roads and waiting till cars run over them. Jays are known to sit on ants nests so as to get bathed in formic acid a natural pesticide. The leopards method of getting to the other side of the road is yet another form of evidence to the intelligence we refuse to recognize. Animals are beautiful and intelligent people. Therefore we must respect them.
A pleasant end to a pleasant day!
Hope this post was enjoyed!
-Flit






